How to make Beeswax Polish • Neve's Bees

How to make Beeswax Polish

how to make beeswax polish

Beeswax has been used to make polish for hundreds of years and can be used to enhance and protect many products made from wood or leather – wooden furniture, chopping boards, bowls or utensils; leather bags, shoes, furniture or clothing.

(It’s also great for skincare – which is where we focus passions here at Neve’s Bees – click through it you’d like to see our range of natural skincare...but read on for beeswax polish recipes 🙂

Recipes for homemade beeswax polish

There are a number of commercial polishes available, but it’s actually quite simple to make your own. We’ve put together a series of different recipes for how to make Beeswax Polish – so if you want to know how to make furniture polish or how you make leather polish, we hope you find one here that suits your needs!


Let’s start with some of the basics. All of these recipes are basically a mixture of wax and oil, some include water and emulsifiers (to mix the water with the oil)


  • Animal waxes – of which beeswax is the most familiar
  • Mineral wax – including paraffin, a by-product of petroleum
  • Vegetable wax – often carnauba wax from Palm Trees
    pure natural beeswax
    Pure natural beeswax from our hives


  • Turpentine Oil (also called Spirit of Turpentine or Turps) is the traditional oil used in furniture polish and has that smell which can remind you of old mahogany furniture. However, it’s toxic so it’s best not to use turps in polish for food items such as bowls or chopping boards!
  • Food grade oils – such as olive oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, food grade linseed oil. Whilst it’s important to use these on food preparation or serving products, some (such as olive oil) can go rancid quite quickly. Hazelnut oil is a lovely long-lasting oil but is likely to be problematic for people with nut allergies.
  • Animal Oils – these can be great for leather polish and include Lanolin (sheep grease) or tallow (beef fat)
  • Non-food grade oils – non-food grade linseed oil (boiled and chemically treated to make it last longer), mineral oils (derived from petroleum)

The method of making all these recipes is pretty much the same – you’re basically melting them together, giving them a good mix then pouring them into containers to allow them to set. However, many of these products are flammable and turps is not very nice if you get it on your skin – so do be careful!

Note – it’s best to use glass or metal containers if you have used turps because it does have a tendency to dissolve plastic!

Let’s start with the base recipe – you can use this for a variety of things – furniture, shoes, bags etc., then we’ll have a look at some variations you can have a play with:

Bring your leather back to life
would you like your shoes and leather bags to shine!

Basic Recipe for Beeswax Polish

  • 15g beeswax (this is one of our little hexagons) – click here if you want more info
  • 45g oil (olive oil, Hazelnut oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil all work well – some products even use avocado oil!)
  • 10 – 20 drops of essential oil such as lavender, sandalwood (this one’s really expensive and is an endangered species) or other woody scents such as pine, or cypress or cedarwood are nice.
  • Optional 10 drops of Vitamin E oil (Wheatgerm oil) or rosemary which act as antioxidants and extend the life of the oil.

This will make around 60g of polish – about enough to fill a standard sized shoe polish tin. If you want to make more, simply increase the materials proportionately – i.e. to make double this, use 30g beeswax (two of our little hexagons), 90g oil and 20 – 40 drops of essential oil etc.

Put the 45g oil and beeswax in a bain marie (or a pyrex / metal jug in a pan of boiling water) and heat it gently, stirring occasionally until the beeswax melts (this will take about 5 -10 minutes). Then remove from the heat and add the essential oil and optional vitamin E oil (or other antioxidant oil) and stir well.

Finally, pour the melted mixture into a tin or glass container and allow to set (this takes about 10 minutes) (top tip – don’t use a container with a narrow neck because it’ll be difficult to get the polish out!)

Here are some nice variations:

Make your wooden bowls shine
Polish wooden bowls and utensils

For wooden Chopping Boards and Bowls

If the wood is to be used to serve food, then it’s important to make sure the oil is food grade.

  • If you’re using linseed oil, make sure it’s raw, food grade oil (not boiled and chemically treated as the chemicals they use are normally toxic for humans).
  • Olive oil is obviously food grade, but it does tend to go rancid fairly quickly.
  • Hazelnut oil is a lovely long-lasting oil but is likely to be problematic for people with nut allergies.
  • You can also use mineral oil (a petroleum derivative) I personally dislike mineral oil but it is used in many polish products.

My top choices for homemade beeswax polish for wood are: Jojoba, pure food grade linseed and coconut oil

Select your choice of oil and use the basic recipe above for how to make beeswax wood polish

For Leather

Leather is basically skin, so many of the oils we use to protect and nourish our skin will also work on leather. I’ve seen some products use jojoba, sandalwood and avocado oil!

In our basic recipe above, you can use a mixture of oils (including lanolin and tallow if you like) and lavender oil is a lovely scent for leather polish. If there’s a particular brand of leather polish you like, have a look at the ingredients and see what’s in it, then you can play using the basic proportions of wax, oil and essential oils above to create your own version!

another use for homemade beeswax furniture polish
Another use for homemade beeswax furniture polish

How to make Beeswax Polish for Wood Furniture – the traditional way

If you’d like to know how to make beeswax wood polish – The traditional polish (like your grandad might have used!) often contained turpentine also called spirit of turpentine, oil of turpentine, wood turpentine or just Turps. This is a fluid obtained by the distillation of resin harvested from living trees. It makes a fab furniture polish with an amazing smell, but is toxic to the skin when ‘neat’ and the polish can ‘melt’ plastic, so make sure to use metal or glass containers to store it.

1. Traditional Liquid beeswax furniture polish

  • 25 g pure soap flakes
  • 50 g beeswax
  • 250 ml turpentine
  • 125 ml water

Dissolve the soap in the warm water in one pan, put the shaved wax into the turpentine in jug over warm water (or bain marie) and warm gently until the wax is thoroughly melted and dissolved. Make sure both mixtures are around the same temperature, then pour the soap mixture into the turpentine, stirring with a wooden stick. When dissolved and well mixed, pour into the storage jars.

2. Traditional Cream or paste beeswax furniture polish

This recipe is simply a mixture of beeswax and a suitable solvent. The less solvent used, the more stiff the mixture. The traditional solvent is pure turpentine and this gives to beeswax polish the scent reminiscent of gleaming old mahogany.

  • 50 g beeswax
  • 125 ml Turps

As per our basic recipe above – simply mix the ingredients together in a heatproof jug over water, or a bain marie, and then, when thoroughly melted and mixed, pour into containers to set

3. Traditional Liquid Cream Polish with Pine Oil

Another recipe adding soap and pine oil can give a far more liquid cream product with a distinctive aroma.

  • 50 g beeswax
  • 125ml Turps
  • 25 g pure soap flakes
  • 125 ml warm water
  • 25 ml pine oil

Dissolve the soap in the warm water and mix well. Set aside to cool. Mix the beeswax and solvent as described above. Allow to cool. When both are cool, mix the pine oil, beeswax/solvent and soap/water together. If you have difficulty in mixing, heat slightly.

how to apply beeswax polish is more simple on lathed wood
A lathed wooden pot show another way of polishing wood

4. Traditional Solid beeswax furniture polish

  • 50g beeswax
  • 50ml Turps
  • 50ml Linseed oil

As per our basic recipe for how to make beeswax polish, put all the ingredients in a bain marie or heatproof just and heat gently over water until dissolved. Stir thoroughly and pour into containers. If this mixture is not solid enough, then either decrease the quantity of turpentine or linseed oil or increase the quantity of beeswax.

5. Very Solid furniture polish – for use in wood turning or lathes

  • 50 g Carnauba wax
  • 150g beeswax
  • 200ml turpentine

To make solid wood polish for wood turning, it’s the same basic method as before – but carnauba wax melts at a far higher temperature so you’ll need to heat it more. Carnauba wax give great hardness with a high gloss finish. It is extracted from the leaves of a palm tree which flourishes in Brazil.

How to use beeswax furniture polish

If you want to know how to apply beeswax to furniture using one of these recipes, simply buff onto a wooden surface with a clean cotton cloth. Let dry for a few minutes (or up to about 15 minutes for the turps polish) and then re-apply or buff off any leftovers .

How to polish other wood items

if using the hard wax for wood turning or lathes, hold the polish in a cloth against the revolving lathe and the friction will melt the wax and spread it evenly over the surface. Sometimes people ask how to use solid beeswax on wood – this is possible (especially if using a lathe to soften the wax) but beeswax by itself is very hard so an easier way to apply beeswax to wood is to follow one of these homemade beeswax polish recipes.

And finally…

As well as making a great nutrient for natural materials, beeswax is also one of the best ingredients to use to protect and nourish skin – which is why we make our award winning ranges of 100% Natural Skincare and Gifts 🙂

100% natural skincare and gifts
Checkout our range of 100% natural skincare and gifts – for skin that feels great and glows with natural health

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19 thoughts on “How to make Beeswax Polish

  1. Helena Knight says:

    Pretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your blog
    and wished to say that I’ve truly enjoyed browsing your blog posts.

    In any case I will be subscribing to your rss feed and I hope you
    write again very

    • Julie Macken says:

      Hi John
      Thanks for your comment – well spotted!
      Yes, to be consistent with the other recipes we should indeed change it to ml – thank you
      Actually, it’s fine to use either really though, because some people like to weigh the ingredients on a scale, taring between the addition of each ingredient. Whilst Turps and Linseed oil are less dense than water (and so one ml is less than 1g) the quantities in all these old recipes tend to be a little ‘vague’ anyway and it’s really your personal preference as to the consistency you like.
      thanks for your feedback – we’ve made this amend 🙂
      All the best
      Julie, Neve and The Bees x

      • Julie Macken says:

        Hi Paula
        Thanks for your message
        I would use a ratio of approx 1:3 Beewax to Linseed Oil (i.e. to make 60g of polish, use around 15g beeswax and 45g oil) and perhaps add a few drops- 10 – 20 (about 0.5 – 1g) of essential oils if you want a fragrance
        My experience is that this is more an ‘art’ than a science and some people prefer a harder polish, others a softer polish – so you could play with this recipe a bit to get the consistency that’s right for you.
        Another ‘top tip’ to get more a ‘creamy’ feel to your polish – follow the recipes in the post but allow the polish to start to set in the jug or bowl. When it’s starting to set but hasn’t got too solid (maybe after 5-10 minutes depending on the temperature of the room) whisk the mixture with a normal food whisk / mixer for a couple of mins – you’ll find it goes ‘creamy’ then you can scoop it into your chosen container – it’s a bit more messy but gives a nice creamy consistency if this is what you like
        Hope this is helpful
        All the best

    • Julie Macken says:

      Hi Norman
      Thanks for your question – what a good question!
      Here’s my take on this:
      Turpentine is made from natural resin that is extracted from trees whereas white spirit is formulated from petroleum distillates. Turpentine is less toxic, but white spirit is less flammable.
      We’ve always used the natural turps to make polish. I did a bit of googling and it seems some people do use white spirit but others say it can dry the wood out.
      I think it would be preferable to use the more natural turps if you can get it?
      Hope this helps!

    • Julie Macken says:

      Thank you, Andrew – so glad it was useful for you 🙂
      We searched long and hard and put together the best old recipes we had with some of our learnings along the way!
      Happy Making!
      All the best

    • Julie Macken says:

      Hi Steve
      Thanks for your question
      Baby Oil is normally a mixture of liquid paraffin (one of the products from petrol refining) and Isopropyl Palmitate – a thickening agent which blocks the skin. Personally, I would not put either of these chemicals on something from which I would eat.
      With regards to their properties to enhance wood, I would imaagine they would stay on the surface and not absorb into the wood.
      Products such as beeswax, or oils such as apricot kernel or olive oil (or even perhaps lanolin from sheep’s wool) would be far more likely to absorb and nourish the wood. Some baby oil products are made from apricot kernel oil so these would be OK I would think
      Hope this is helpful?

  2. Anton says:

    Thank you for a really useful collection of recipes!

    I’m totally new to all this, so began with your basic recipe of beeswax, jojoba oil, and essential oils – I used sandalwood and cedar (Phatoil brand). It was a success as far as making really nice polish went, but the essential oils seemed to not work (20 drops per 30g of polish). Neither my wife nor I could detect any fragrance at all from the sandalwood, and just a faintly turpentine smell from the cedar – nothing like what I had hoped for. I know the fragrances of both woods well. Am I using the wrong brand of essential oils?

    • Julie Macken says:

      Hi Anton
      Glad the collection of recipes is useful – thanks!
      Re essential oils, I’m not personally aware of this brand – I expect some companies perhaps source from different places so the fragrances might differ?
      However, one thing I might suggest is to use a blend of essential oils with different ‘notes’ – e.g.; some which ‘percolate’ the air faster and some slower.
      Cedar and Sandalwood are both woody and (I think) base notes and both can smell slightly ‘turps’ like so will be quite similar to each other. Sometimes, blending lavender with cedar can work well?
      To Be honest, there are people more expert than I on blending essential oils to create the ambience you desire – I’m sure an internet search on blending essential oils will yield some good results for you? if you stick to the overall volume of 20 drops as per the recipe then it can be quite fun to play about within this
      Hope this is of some help

  3. Lydia says:

    Hi! Thanks for the recipes! I’m making polish for a serving board. Is the inclusion of the drops of scented essential oils a requirement, or can I just use beeswax and one of the suggested oils?

    • Julie Macken says:

      Hi Lydia
      Thanks so much for reading our blog – glad you like the recipes 🙂
      Yes, if you wanted to leave out the essential oils, that’s fine – just replace them with drops of the ‘carrier’ oil so that the proportions of the ‘runny’ oils and ‘solid’ wax is the same as the original recipe
      Have fun with your polish making

  4. Tori says:

    I’m based in Australia and natural turps is hard to come by. We have an equivalent of gum turps – just making sure this would suffice?

    • Julie Macken says:

      Hi Tori
      Thanks for your comment and your interest in our little blog post – I’d no idea it’d be read so far away!
      The short answer is ‘I don’t know!’ However, I’ve done a bit of research on natural turps vs gum turps and it seems that they are similar – with natural turps being made from the refined pinewood chips whereas gum turps is made from resin (compared with mineral turps which is made from petroleum). From what I can glean, both the natural and gum turps can cause skin irritation and should NOT be ingested. Chemically, I understand gum turps contains more b-pinene and is more often used in varnishes, whereas wood turps is used in paints.
      My best advice would be to speak with the supplier of the turps and ask whether it would be suitable and / or to make a small batch of the polish and test it one some wood that’s not too important to you?
      Sorry not to be more precise, but hopefully this gives you a start point 🙂
      Many thanks and all the best


  5. P J Austen says:

    Brilliant, informative and simple; just what I needed. I made some polish for raw wood from bees wax , tung oil and raw linseed oil. Worked OK but was very hard, so I’ve remixed with added white spirit as per your instructions. Thank you for a great site best regards from South England

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